I was almost sitting in front of my computer on-lined at least twice a day ever since Air Asia announced of their acquisition of landing permit in Thailand. I was really lucky after about a month of waiting and checking, Air Asia eventually opened their direct flight from KLIA to Bangkok. I swept the lowest fare of RM99.99 one-way to Bangkok and return on the first day morning of their promotion.
Friends and classmates of mine, seven persons in total, flying to Bangkok on 14 March for a journey of 8 days in Thailand. We were really lucky of getting the cheapest fare as our traveling period is coincidentally crushed with our national school holidays. The flight was really full.
DAY 1: 14 March 2004 BANGKOK
Ex-colleague and I bought the special promotion return ticket of KLIA Transit at the MATTA Fair and cost only half the price of a normal return ticket. I left home at about 10am in order to catch the train leaving at 10.33am from KL Sentral to KLIA.
We gathered at the Air Asia check-in counter, of course not forgetting to take the group photo before leaving KLIA. We had a very light lunch at the food court, expensive and tasteless; we were actually looking forwards for cheaper and better foods in Thailand.
Nothing special of flying with Air Asia besides their cheapest price compared to other airlines. However, due to free seating arrangement, people were rushing and queuing at the entrance in the boarding hall, afraid that no getting the best seats they ever aiming for, usually the front and window seats. Look like very Chinese! Amazingly the Whites follow the custom of "kiasuism" too!
The flight journey took about two hours. We landed at the Terminal 2 of Bangkok International Airport at about 2:45pm local time and we walked over to the Terminal 1, which was a very short distance. The railway station of Don Muang is exactly opposite the Terminal 1 connected with a pedestrian bridge crossed over the highway. We waited for about an hour for the train going to the main station in city center, Hualamphong Railway Station, which cost only 10B per person. While waiting for the train, I also purchased the train tickets going to Chiang Mai from Ayutthaya and the return journey of Chiang Mai to Bangkok from the information counter, as the ticket counter was closed. The advance booking can only be made for long journey as according to the staff, not for short distance like Bangkok to Ayutthaya.
The train came finally at about 4.30pm, crowded with locals. It was a non-aircond. and hard-seat 3rd class train. We were standing on the walkway inside the train with our bulky rucksacks; waiting for any empty seats available whenever reaching the next stops. The air flew into the train was hot and dry; our skin was really sticky. The locals were wearing simple and old fashion clothing looked like lowest class of the citizens. The atmosphere remained me of those days traveling in the train back in 50 years ago in China. I felt like I’m traveling in the past!
Bangkok, so called one of the international metropolitan city in the world, I could still able to see those homeless people staying in a simple tent alongside the highways or railways or even at the corner of streets where no one would even bother to help them, they lives peaceful (so called) without “disturbance” from the government. I wonder what is inside their mind; don’t them want to have a better living or just pretending of nonexistence in this city till the end of their life? Everyone has the right to live the way they wanted to, but why there are still people who give up their hope or not to struggle for a better future?
The train reached the huge main railway station of Hualamphong after about one hour trip. We had a very difficult time to explain to the taxi drivers of where we would like to go; we were stuck in getting a taxi, as the taxi drivers we approached can hardly understand us in English! Luckily, a very friendly and sweet Thai lady came to rescue us by showing us where and how to get the bus that is cheaper than taking the taxi. The bus stop is just located on the right hand side of the entrance of Hualamphong train station. Without any delay we boarded the bus leading us to Mahboonkrong Shopping Center (MBK) that cost only 5B (whereas the taxi minimum charge is 35B). We got down the bus where exactly the place I came first time two years ago. We walked to Soi Kasem San 1 to look for our accommodation for the night, from one guesthouse to another. Unfortunately, God knows why, all the guesthouses were fully occupied! Luckily, we managed to get the only three left rooms in Muangphol Mansion, a budget hotel next to the main rood and Skytrain station. This was the hotel that first strikes my sixth sense that we would eventually end up with, and it was true enough!
After we had taken our bath, we rushed to MBK, which is just opposite the road for our dinner. The food court I believe had done some renovation that looked better in feature but the quality of the foods was not up to our standard anymore! We had the lousiest Thai foods in Thailand!
Next, we took the Skytrain to Patpong, one of the well-known red light areas in Bangkok. Friends of mine were really excited with the pubs alongside the Patpong Night Market. There were many people offering adult shows outside the pubs, and some even can speak to us in Mandarin! The ladies wearing bikini dancing and twisting their sexy body on the tables inside the pubs, trying their best to attract the guys.
We had to go back to our hotel earlier as we need to rush for our early morning train to Ayutthaya next day. There were many food stalls right outside our hotel alongside the main road. Friends of mine were so excited with the cheap and tasty barbequed meats, and fresh and sweet fruits, which only cost 10B each (big serving)!
DAY 2: 15 March 2004 AYUTTHAYA
One of our group members decided to stay back in Bangkok and not following us for the onward journey. I was really sad on this, however I had to continue the journey with the rest. I was praying for him so that God will protect him while he is alone in Bangkok. I hoped to see him safe and sound when we back and meet again in Bangkok after our journey to Ayutthaya and Chiang Mai.
We rushed to Hualamphong Train Station by taxi to buy our tickets to Ayutthaya. At the same time, I asked for the refund of the tickets of my friend that not following us. Luckily, we were really blessed by the angels of the city, that we managed to receive quite a lot of money back from the cancelled tickets (50% on Ayutthaya-Chiang Mai and 80% on Chiang Mai-Bangkok).
We took the same type of train that we traveled to Bangkok from the airport on the first day we arrived. The journey to Ayutthaya about 1 hour 40 minutes that passing thru the paddy fields was really fascinating. The early morning breeze was not so hot and the golden ray of the sun was just nice for the journey. The train was quite empty with very few passengers. The food sellers that get in and down from the train started their daily business walking pass to sell their products, that remained me the first time I traveled by Thai rail. Their voice like a singing tone, flowing from one end of the train to the other end, so soft and sweet. I would say Thai is one of the most soft and beautiful languages in the world.
Without realizing, we reached Ayutthaya at about 8.40am; the helpful and good-looking train police officer came and remained us of our destination. I really felt warm-hearted. We left our luggage at the train station for 10B each bag. Then, we crossed the road and came to one of the restaurants nearby for our breakfast. It was really a peaceful, lazy and relaxing town, suitable for a break after a long hassled working life in big city. Next, we rented bicycles to tour around the town. The shop lady showed us where to locate those beautiful temples around on the only left map she had.
The first temple we visited was Wat Yai Chaya Mongkol, after cycling of about 4km from the train station. I was really tired, as I was not used to cycle for long and my skill was really lousy! The temple was really wonderful with beautiful landscape gardening. The next stop was Wat Phanan Cheong, which is located on the riverside. We didn’t visit this temple but entering the compound to reach the pier next to it for crossing the river. The sky was cloudy and didn’t look good. We paid 5B each to cross the river together with our bicycles via motorboat. We had to carry our own bicycles onto the boat. The other side of the river stands a pavilion where we decided to take a break as the sky was about to rain. The huge compound of Wat Phanan Cheong was really fascinating viewing from the pavilion cross the river.
We continued our journey to Phraram Park. We had to stop at one of the pavilions inside the park away from the main road as the rain poured heavily. The park was beautiful with the ruin temples as the background and rivers flew in between. The atmosphere was really peaceful and relaxing. We felt like being transformed to the past by time machine where the great royal city of Ayutthaya was found about 600 years ago.
After the rain stopped, we had a photo stop at the Wat Thammikarat and continued our journey to Wat Phra Si Sanphet. We didn’t enter Wat Phra Si Sanphet but just took a picture of it from outside. We saw the tourists riding the elephants and toured around the temples near Wat Phra Ram. Unfortunately, we had problem with the tyre of one of our bicycles. We searched around but unable to locate any bicycle shop to repair it. We had to send the bicycle for repair via tuk-tuk and the rest cycled and waited at Wat Ratchaburana. Luckily we had walkie-talkie for communication. We managed to gather the member who went to repair the bicycle with the rest. We parked our bicycles at the entrance of Wat Ratchaburana and walked across the road to get something for refreshment at one of the restaurants there.
The golden ray of sunset shined the ruin temples in Ayutthaya like covering them with a layer of golden silk. We continued our visit to Wat Mahathat, the well-known temple where a Buddha head around which tree roots have grown.On the way back, we stopped at the town center and had our dinner at the Chao Phrom Market. The food there was really tasty and big serving, of course cheap! The locals were very friendly and nice. The sky was dark and we had to rush for the train. We took the shower at one of the guesthouses opposite the bicycle renting shop for 20B a person. We then waited for our train to Chiang Mai at the railway station, which operates 24 hours daily. The luggage room of the railway station was not really safe enough. We were inside the room and tidying up our staff, while there were many other bags and rucksacks around. I wondered as whether the railway station staff knows which bags belonged to us, what if we opened up other bags or took away other bags? Not one would know, I believed.
Our train was delay for about an hour due to some technical problems to the train. A nice, tall and good-looking railway police officer came to advise us on the problems and guided us on which train that we should take. The night train to Chiang Mai was really a long one with many cars that the platform of Ayutthaya Railway Station could not accommodate. Our car was number 14 that almost towards the end. We had to run down from the platform and waited at the side of the railway track. The train was passing by us before it stopped; it was really dangerous and exciting. The gap between the stairs of the train and the ground was about 3 feet height! We had no choice but tried our best to jump up to the train with our bulky rucksack on our back! Really amazing!
The night was a tiring and sweet one; all of us had a nice rest over the night in the train.
[View Ayutthaya Photos]
DAY 3: 16 March 2004 CHIANG MAI
Early morning after a simple wash up in the train, we walked from one end of the train to the other end to observe what other people doing and how they looked like. Friends of mine had card games while I enjoyed talking with another friend. The train passed by the dry forest. The air was rather dusty and hot.
Upon arrival at the Chiang Mai Railway Station, I approached the information counter. Apparently, the staffs at the counter were actually the staffs of the local travel agents. They were suggesting some hotels or guesthouses with reasonable pricing. They even sent us to the hotel for inspection free of charge. We then decided to stay in Winner Inn Hotel that they gave a promotional price of 400B a room a night. The rooms were really good with air-cond and attached bathroom with hot water shower. Friends of mine were really like the room that shown by the hotel staff. The lady who sold us the rooms, Nim, also persuaded us to take up a tour in Chiang Mai. After some discussions, we agreed to go for a day trip to Maetaman Rafting & Elephant Camp to see the elephant shows, ride the elephant and visit the Lisu hilltribe, go for a bamboo rafting, and also visit a elephant dung paper factory and orchid farm en-route. The tour cost us 800B a person. We were also given a free half-day tour to visit the cottage industries around Chiang Mai.
We quickly took a bath and had our lunch at the nearby food stall before the half-day tour in the afternoon starting at 1pm.
A local Chinese old lady who worked at the counter of the hotel, quietly offered us a dinner and night show at a cheapest price of 190B whereas the same offered by the travel agents cost about 400B. We were impressed of the help offered by the old lady and without any doubts we agreed to pay the price and there would be a van to pick us up for the dinner and show at 7pm. She even asked us not to disclose this to the travel agent staff.
The half-day tour was not really fascinating. The driver didn’t do any commentary on Chiang Mai and its cottage industries instead drove us to the various factories and showrooms, hoping to earn his commission at the end of the tour. The driver drove us to the lacquerware factory where the plates, containers, utensils and other items decorated with eggshell. Next, we visited the gems factory, silverware factory, umbrellas factory, woodcarving & furniture factory, and lastly the textiles factory before sending us back to hotel.
We were too tired and took a rest in our rooms after the tour. About 7pm, the reception called and told us that our van is waiting downstairs. There were two German ladies already in the van who were going for the dinner as well. The restaurant was a hug wooden traditional house decorated with local northern region architecture design. There were five long tables that can easily accommodate 20 persons on one side, arranged vertically with the stage in front. There were not many people that night. Foods served on the table with portions for four persons of each dishes. There were fish, chicken, pork and vegetables with rice. Foods can be replenished on request. The shows started while we were still having our dinner. There were fingers dance, drum, traditional music, and some other northern region traditional dances.
Some of us felt that we were cheated. They believed the dinner and show offered by the travel agents that cost much higher should be a grand and nicer place than what we had that night. However, based on the price we paid, I personally quite comfortable with the service and foods provided. I’m an easy-going person after all.
The van sent us to the Night Market after the dinner and show. We walked around and observed what was there in the night market and what are the things that we would like to buy. Some of us started their shopping without any delay, as they said it was irresistible. Most of the items sold here are handicrafts and clothes.On our way back to hotel, we stopped at one of the Internet shop that offered the cheapest we could ever find in town, 15B per hour! Some of us sent back their messages to their family members.
DAY 4: 17 March 2004 CHIANG MAI
Early morning, we went to one of the restaurants on the main road near our hotel for breakfast: rice with 3 dishes cost only 20B, very cheap!
While waiting for our van to pick us up for the day trip, some of us sent our clothes for laundry. My long pants cost 25B for the service, rather too expensive!
The English speaking tour guide, Ning came to greet us at the hotel lobby. He led us to the elephant training camp north of Chiang Mai. He was friendly, nice and humor. Some of our members started asking him some questions on where to buy books, VCDs, DVDs and even the best massage center in town. I was fallen asleep during the journey to the elephant camp, as I was really tired. I lost my voice since I was in Ayutthaya due to the hot and dry weather in Thailand, and I kept on drinking water like nobody business. I spent quite a lot of money on buying the mineral water.
The Maetaman Rafting and Elephant Camp located in the middle of the jungle. Amazingly there were lots of Whites at the entrance area and having photograph section with the elephants. While waiting for the elephant bathing time, we went to the washrooms. I like their washrooms, which were surprisingly very spacious and clean.
According to our tour guide, an elephant can easily consume about 250kg of food and 18 gallon of water a day. For those who interested, an elephant can be sold at 400,000B. Next, we went to the riverside to see how elephants taking their bath. The elephants splashed water on the tourists while walking back from the river. It was really fun seeing people running away from the elephants. The elephant shows started right after the bathing time. Tourists were well seated under the shelters built by bamboos. We saw how elephant played harmonica, standing on two legs, played basket ball and even foot ball, massage, painting and so on. It was really amazing! But one thing really spoilt my mood was that the elephants were trained to collect tips from the tourists after the show!
Next, we proceeded to elephant riding. It was not really fascinating, as I had experienced it once in Nepal. The jungle was too dry, the trees didn't look greenish and the surrounding looked very dusty. Most of the teak trees were cut down for commercial purpose, therefore the jungle no longer as thick as it was.
We then stopped at the Lisu village. Again, it was another round of shopping of handicrafts. The hilltribe people were wearing their own customs and selling their handmade products. We spent quite a lot of time there bargaining the price.
On the way back to the camp, we rod the white-ox-carts and passing thru the local village. We had our buffet lunch upon arrival at the restaurant in the camp. After the lunch, we went for bamboo rafting. The river was flowing very slowly and the water was really cool. We dipped our legs into the water and felt the natural coolness flew into our body and revived our spirit. I like the environment, so peaceful and relaxing.
Next, we boarded our van and proceeded to Thaimitts Elephant Dung & Natural Fiber Paper factory and showroom. Here, we saw the whole process of how the elephant dung turned into pieces of papers; from cleaning, boiling, dyeing, to drying under the sun. We even saw the various end products from this recycling process of elephant dung at their showroom. This idea was really fantastic; it is really an environmental friendly process!
Before heading back to our hotel, we stopped at an orchid and butterfly farm. Our tour guide explained to us on how orchid grew from the seed in the sealed bottle before they were transferred to the pot. The compound was not really big but we saw variety of different kind of beautiful orchid flowers grew in the farm.
At night, we had our dinner at the food court in Night Market. The food was not really good as what we expected. After the dinner, some of us went to search for the best massage center recommended by the tour guide. A friend of mine and I went to the biggest bookstore in town: Suriwong Book Center, which is very near to the Night Market. Unfortunately, they already closed at 7.30pm. We then walked towards the old town to look for other bookstores and VCD or DVD stores along the way.
DAY 5: 18 March 2004 CHIANG MAI
We had our breakfast in one of the restaurants next to Night Market, which is very Chinese looked and situated at the corner of a junction. Friends of mine who eagerly looked for the best massage center in town were not able to locate it last night; therefore they planned to go there again in the morning. The one who recommended by our tour guide as well as some other people, the best massage center in town is Red Elephant. The friend of mine and I went to Suriwong Book Center again. It was a well-decorated modern bookstore. I managed to buy a book on Chiang Mai and the hilltribes. We then walked to the old town area and looked for other bookstores.
Before noon, as we had to cheak-out from the hotel at 11am, we left our luggage at the hotel and continued our exploration of the old town and visited the oldest temple in Chiang Mai: Wat Chiang Man. We had our late lunch at Aum Vegetarian Restaurant, it was a restaurant cum bookstore; ones could enjoy meals while reading/browsing the books of interest.
We walked back to the hotel to get our luggage and caught a sawngthaew to the railway station. The ride was extremely cheap, i.e. 10B per person as compared to the offered from the old lady at the hotel who charged us for 200B to get a van for us. Upon arrival at the train station, it was very close to the departure time. Some of us ran to the opposite 7-11 store across the road to buy some bread and snacks for our dinner on the train.
We met a local Chinese businessman and an undergraduate student of Chiang Mai University on the train.
[View Chiang Mai Photos]
DAY 6: 19 March 2004 BANGKOK
We had to wake up early in the morning, as the train will reach Bangkok at about 6.15am. We approached the information counter in Hualamphong Railway Station upon arrival; the lady over the counter showed us the direction of where to get the bus and the bus number to Khao San Road. We went to the left hand side of the train station but were unable to locate any bus stop along the road. Suddenly, we saw the bus came and stopped right after the corner near the entrance to the railway station and picked up few passengers. There was no bus stop sign available. We missed the bus, so what we do was to wait for the next bus at where the previous bus stopped and picked up the passengers. There were few Whites waiting for the bus too, so I guessed this must be the place and I assumed we were going to the same place too. Meanwhile there were many taxi drivers came to offering us their service, as the taxi stand was just opposite to where we were waiting.
The next bus came after few minutes and the ride was extremely cheap, only 4B per person! The bus passed by the Chinatown area and the places of interest such as Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. We went to look for our accommodation nearby Khao San Road in a quiet and peaceful lane where full of budget hotels and guesthouses. God knows why, most of the guesthouses were fully occupied and rooms were only available after 12pm checkout time. No advance booking available, we had to come back and check.
We had our breakfast at the roadside stall in a small lane where an old lady selling pork porridge. The porridge was really tasty, or maybe we were too hungry. We finally decided to stay in Sawasdee Krungthep Inn where at least they still have a quad share room available and would reserved a double room for us after the checkout time. We took turns for taking our bath in that room and at the same time the hotel staff gave us another vacant room but only for taking bath. I wondered why the hotel staff didn’t give us the room instead, maybe the room was mean for certain purpose or maybe that room had some kind of unexplainable objects inside. God knows!
We left our luggage inside the room and went to Grand Palace to meet the friend of mine who stayed back in Bangkok. I led them the way; stopped at the Bangkok Tourist Bureau to get some information and useful leaflets and maps, then passing thru the Thammasat University, Maharaj Market and Amulet Market before reaching the entrance to Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace. I saw my friend from far, who standing in front of the entrance; I felt released.
He was robbed the day before in the middle of the street, crowded with people on the road in Silom area. He had the unpleasant experiences where little helps available. However, he was lucky that someone give him some money to spend till he met us. I led him to our hotel via taxi while the rest went into the Wat Phra Kaew first; we then met again later.
The Wat Phra Kaew and Grand Palace would be closed at 3.30pm, we had little time to explore the fascinating and beautiful architectural of the buildings and the Buddha images. Next, we proceeded to Wat Pho. I really enjoyed listening to the metal sound made from the bowls when coins dropped into them. The environment was really peaceful and quiet. The huge declining Buddha layered with orange silk cloth looked very amazingly.On our way back to our hotel, we walked all the way and came to Sanam Luang. There were people playing kites on this huge royal field, it was a windy season. There were lots of kites in the sky and lots of locals on the field. There were many food stalls everywhere on the field and friends of mine were really excited with the local foods, tasty and cheap!
We planned to view the sunset over the Mae Nam Chao Phraya River, however due to rain, we had to go back to our hotel. After taking our bath and rest, we went to Khao San Road area for our late dinner. We wandered around the area till midnight.
DAY 7: 20 March 2004 BANGKOK
We had our breakfast at the lane where we stayed. We really liked the particular noodle soup that cost 20B only. Then, we proceeded to the nearby tourist information booth to ask for the bus going to Chatuchak Weekend Market. The staff was very helpful and resourceful. No wonder why their tourism industry is much better than that of our country; not only the quality of the services, but also the positive attitude of the staff.
The weekend market was really huge and crowded with lots of people. Friends of mine were over excited with the cheap things sold in the market. We were walking and shopping till the market closed at about 7pm! Can you imagine, we spent the whole day in Chatuchak Weekend Market and yet, we didn’t cover the whole market; certain part of the market we didn’t have the enough time to explore!
I really admire the locals of their respectfulness attitude towards their country. At about 5pm, the national anthem played thru the speakers placed all over the market. Everyone in the market was immediately standing up straight and making no noise. We were shocked and had to follow the locals. No one dared to make a single move, seemed like the time was stopped and everybody was freeze. I really had a heavy heart after this incident; I was sad, as this seldom happen in my country, I really doubt the attitude of our people towards the country.
At night, we took the bus back and stopped at the Democracy Monument. We had group photo with the monument as the background, and it was really wonderful with the lights on. We walked all the way back to Khao San Road area and had our dinner before going back to our hotel. Later at night almost close to midnight, we went back to Khao San Road to taste the pork burger that will never be sold in Malaysia.
[View Bangkok Photos]
DAY 8: 21 March 2004 BANGKOK
After the long journey, most of my friends including me myself were terribly tired. We decided not going to Chinatown as what we initially planned. We rather waked up a bit late, and took a walk to the Santichaiprakan Park where the Phra Sumen Fort located and it was not far from where we stayed. It was a lazy Sunday morning, the Mae Nam Chao Phraya River was flowing peacefully and the water traffic was not really busy. There were very few people in the park. However, we saw a group of locals gather at one spot having some kind of local community event; we saw many people having a group hair cut together.
Before noon, we checked out from the hotel, and walked a distance with our bulky rucksacks on our back to the bus stand that to catch the bus going to airport. We all sweated like hell and had to run and jump into the bus. The bus stand was really busy with buses going for different destination; one might miss the bus if other buses block one’s sight, or the bus driver did not notice there is any passenger at the bus stand.
We stopped at the bus stand just beside the Don Muang Railway Station. We walked over the pedestrian bridge and checked in at the Air Asia counter located at Terminal 2. After paying the airport tax of 500B, we walked to the local food court. This would be our last chance of having the tasty local foods before boarding the plane.
The queue at the immigration and custom check was quite long. We really worried of getting late for our flight. Luckily, nobody was blaming and stopping us for jumping queue. I guessed Thai people are truly nice to tourist, or we were just too lucky. We were running inside the airport heading to our boarding gate. I heard the notice announced thru the speaker saying that Air Asia flight was delayed, while we were running. True enough, the arrival flight from Kuala Lumpur was delayed when we approached the counter at the entrance of the boarding gate, and our departure would have to postpone to another half an hour. Thank God, we did not miss the flight!
The time passed very fast, we safely touched down at KLIA. After the hassle of locating our luggage, there was no clear indication of which luggage belt assigned for Air Asia passengers, we had to ask and follow the instruction of the staff of where to get our luggage. It was really badly managed.
We took the KLIA Transit back to KL Sentral, and I went back home by taking the KL Monorail. About an hour after the flight touched down at KLIA, I was at home taking my bath and ready for my bedtime. I was really terribly tired both body and soul. My illness, since the second day of the trip, took about a month to recover.
Yoke Ming
22 April 2004
