Even though I was back from my recent trip to Perhentian Islands, but I've not fully recovered from the lovesick with these islands. This is the first trip that I went alone. It was really another wonderful trip I ever had this year. As compared to Redang Island, where I went two months ago, Perhentian Islands have the most beautiful marine life with lots of fish and corals (more that those you can find in Redang Marine Park), crystal clear water and snow white fine sands, the hottest sun (for those who like sun bathing at the beach), and many lovely activities and nightlife (especially on Long Beach at Perhentian Kecil).
I was quite nervous initially as I had to travel alone; I was so afraid of any bad things happened to me along the journey. On 5 Oct.'s night, I was rushing for my bus and I had only RM60.00 in my pocket. I though I could withdraw some money along the way to Putra Bus Station. Unfortunately, it was on long queue and I could not wait for any longer. I had to catch my bus. The 9 o'clock bus was already waiting at the platform; it was a new bus and decorated with royal colour. I was so glad to have a seat in such a lovely bus but I regretted later on; the bus was speeding all the way to Jerteh and the annoying speed alarm was on for the whole night! The person who sat beside me had to be educated on how one should sleep properly on a chair. I did not have a good sleep on the bus journey that night.
After 7 1/2 hours later, I reached Jerteh Bus Station; there was only one comfort stop along the way. It was 4:30am, while I was waiting for the driver to pick me up, I saw quite a number of "kereta sapu" (non-commercial private car) waiting at the bus station and the drivers were asking around to offer a ride. Those cars were in terrible conditions, the driver charged RM10.00 per person for a transfer to Kuala Besut. But, this price will gradually decreased when the ordinary bus running to Kuala Besut started operating in the early morning. There were more and more express buses arriving as time passed, I was shocked seeing those "kereta sapu" chasing the buses from the back and stopped right beside / behind the buses; in order to get the customers fast, they drove like F1 drivers following one and others. Amazing!
I was waited for quite some times, then I made a phone call to check for my pick up. The driver was then showed up after a while; he had waited for me at the other express buses drop-off point nearby (usually is for Transnasional Express Buses). I was glad that I was given a van (bigger and newer vehicle that those of "kereta sapu") and I was the only passenger in the vehicle! The driver, Azmin was really friendly. The journey to Kuala Besut was about 20 minutes. According to Azmin, the roads to Kuala Besut usually will be flooded during Monsoon Seasons; transportation will be definitely heavily affected during the seasons.
At about 6:15am, I reached Bubu Inn at Kuala Besut. After washing up, while I was about going out for breakfast, there was raining outside. I had to wait for a while. Ten minutes before 7 o'clock, the rain stopped. I went over the Besut's bridge and looked for the restaurant (which is nearby my colleague's house) that she strongly recommended the best "nasi berlauk" in town. The food was really tasty and the fish was really fresh! However, I was overpriced, as I believed they knew I'm not the local.
The sunrise over the Besut Town was beautiful. The scenery of the Besut River and the surrounding was also very interesting. From the mainland, one could easily see the Perhentian Islands on the east. I even saw a fishing boat was stranded on the sandbank in the middle of the river; the locals were trying their level best to pull the boat back to the river.
Guess what, the town do not even has a bank! I have no way to withdraw even a single cent!
Bubu Inn has a total of 14 rooms, which consisted of 5 air-cond/seaview rooms and 9 fan/town view rooms, and a shared/common washroom each for male and female. I was sitting at the rest area till the time to catch my boat leaving at 9:00am. Together with a couple that drove all the way here, we were transferred to the new jetty for our boat journey to Perhentian Islands. The speedboat was comfortable and the journey was about half an hour.
En-route a passenger getting down at the Fisherman Village on Perhentian Kecil that gave me a closer look at this village. There was a concreted building of 3-storey school and many wooden houses. According to the boatman, they were building a road linked from this village to Long Beach. Therefore, in future, besides traveling by boat, the villagers could travel by land to Long Beach at a shorter way (currently they had to walk thru the jungle for 2 hours/way).
I was almost unable to control myself jumping into the water while our boat was approaching the Long Beach at Perhentian Kecil; oh, my God, I saw crystal clear water and the fish was swimming in it!
There was no jetty at Long Beach; therefore all passengers have to land on water before reaching the beach. I was so excited and rushed to the reception for check in. Unfortunately, they had a big group staying in-house last night; my room was not ready yet and had to wait. After about 15 minutes, I got my room. I was given the best seaview room located on the highest floor (3rd floor). My room number was 311. After taking the shower, without any waste of time, I took my camera and ran down to the beach and started to kill my films!
Bubu Long Beach Resort was situated at the northern end of Long Beach and it was the only deluxe resort on this island. There were several more budget chalets at the southern part of the beach, which were about 200m away. I had walked from one end to the other.
Guess what I saw? Topless lady laying on the beach for sun bathing! Not one, but few of them!
The buffet lunch was started from 12:30pm and the cooking was Chinese style. Be frank, the food was not really tasty. Right after the lunch I was too tired and took a nap. The first snorkeling trip was at 3:00pm. I had to pay the rental of snorkeling equipment of RM20.00 for 3D/2N package and RM30.00 deposit. They didn't have credit card facilities and therefore I had to pay cash. Guess how much money left in my pocket? RM10.00 only!
We had to swim to the nearby coral area that located about 200m away from the beachfront. Again, I had a big problem here: I don't know how to swim! Luckily, I had a very good guide who accompanying me the whole trip; he teach me how to float/stand on the water with the help of my life jacket, also on how to balance myself in the water and basic swimming skill. He even helped me to build my self-confidence in the water. I was really enjoying the trip. The guide even helped me snapping some photos on the fish and corals.
We went back to the resort at 4:30pm for tea break. I was sitting underneath a shelter enjoying the sea breeze and beautiful scenery till the time for dinner at 7:30pm. I heard there were many interesting pubs & restaurants down the beach near those budget chalets; one of them where guests had to be sit on the ground and you may dance with the disco music on. I wish I could have happy hours at those pubs but I only had RM10.00 in my pocket!
I went back to my room and read a book before falling asleep. Anyway, I still had to sleep earlier so that I could wake up earlier next morning to see the sunrise. Unfortunately, it was too cloudy. I went back to sleep till the breakfast time at 7:30am.
The second snorkeling trip was at 10:30am. This time we were going to shark point and then turtle point by speedboat. I did not see any shark as they said it depend on your luck. However, I saw big turtles at the turtle point (about 200m in front of Perhentian Island Resort, Perhentian Besar). Again, the guide helped me snapping close-up photos on those turtles.At 12:30pm, we were back to resort for lunch. Due to low occupancy, they served set lunch. Since I was alone, I did not mind to join the staff for lunch; in fact I enjoyed having meals with them. I went to snap photos again after lunch till the next snorkeling trip at 2:30pm.
This time we went to another point to see baby shark (near to Coral View Island Resort, Perhentian Besar). There were a lot of rocks at that area, the boatman did advise us not to get close to the current. I did see many fish and corals there but not baby shark. I was following the guide and the group snorkeling around that area. Without knowing, I was pulling by the current towards the rocks and hard corals; I noticed that no matter how hard I tried to move forward but yet I felt I was pulling backwards. When I turned back and I saw I was getting closer and closer to the big rocks and hard corals. I was really afraid as I was alone and I knew I would be injured if I smashed into any of the rocks or hard corals. I tried my best to calm down and moved forward harder and harder; I could not shout for help, as the current was too strong for me to do anything but kept on moving forwards. At one time, while I was struggling, my left leg kicked into one of the hard corals; I was too close to the rocks and hard corals, I knew I was in danger then. Luckily, my hero, the guide came to rescue me. He was holding my hand and pulling me out of the current; we had moved very hard in order to get back to the boat. I was really exhausted and could only hanging at the side of the boat.
While resting at the side of the boat, I saw many fish swimming around me, various in colours, sizes and types; I was really enjoying myself then. Suddenly, I saw a jellyfish, white colour with a big blue dot in the middle, about 3m away from me. Oh, my God! I quickly climbed up the ladder and jumped into the boat. Wow, that was close!
Next, we went to another snorkeling point near D'Lagoon Chalets, Perhentian Kecil. I was too tired then and I decided not to go into the water, furthermore I had a cut in my left leg. I sat at the front portion of the boat where I could do sun bathing there. From there, I could easily see fish swimming in the water and people happily enjoying their snorkeling and playing with the water. I saw a group of divers doing their training course there too; I wish one day I could be one of them, but first I have to learn swimming!
At 4:40pm, we were on the way back to resort for tea break. I liked the way that sea breeze blowing to my face while I was sitting inside the speedboat moving on high speed. I could not explain how I felt that moment; I knew I was really happy and enjoyed it!
At 5:30pm, I decided to walk over the jungle to the other side of the island for sunset view. I had to put on my sport shoes as I had a cut in my leg. Together with a torchlight, camera and tripod inside my sling bag, I moved on alone. The entrance of the jungle walk was at the side of the entrance to Mohsin Chalets, it was a narrow path (width of one person could passing thru) into the thick jungle. At first I was afraid too, as I walked alone and there was uncertainty laid in front; I would not know I had chosen the right way. I was moving quite fast in the jungle and based on my intuition this jungle is safe. Usually the journey would take about 10 – 15 minutes, but it only took me (the first timer) 7 minutes to reach the other side; I prefer the jungle, hill & mountain than the sea.
It was totally a different beach as compared to Long Beach; According to the book, this beach, Coral Bay (or Aur Bay) has the most beautiful sunset view. The beach was short and narrow, laid with a layer of shells and dead corals. Rocky at the both end but beautiful for photo snapping. The water was not so clear as compared to Long Beach. Life here was much simple and would be very quiet at night.
While I was waiting for the sunset, I sat on a wooden bench in front a mini store and enjoying the sea breeze and the peaceful and lazy late afternoon there. Remember that I did not have enough money to buy myself a drink, otherwise I would have sitting inside one of the restaurant and/or chatting with the beautiful "Mat Salleh" ladies while waiting for the sunset. At 6:40pm, I had to leave the beach as a layer of cloud blocked the sun, there wouldn't be a nice sunset then. A little bit of disappointed, but yet I still enjoyed the waiting moment there.
I had BBQ dinner that night; I loved the seafood, as it was really fresh and big in size! I drunk a lot of water during meals time, the reason being was a bottle of mineral water (1.5 litre) cost about RM3.50 there and the restaurant would not allow guest to refill their bottle of mineral water free of charge. That was the way on how I saved my money.
I slept earlier that night, as I was tuckered out.
On 8 Oct.'s morning, I woke up at 6:00am. The sky was quite clear, I knew I could snap beautiful sunrise then. I set up my tripod and camera, sitting on a chair at the balcony waiting for the sky turning brighter. I saw the colour changed from time to time; I was attracted and amazed at the wonders of the nature.I had decided to go for sun bathing for the whole day; I was under the sun for 4 hours (started from 8:40am) in the morning and 3 hours (started from 2:40pm) in the afternoon. I enjoyed more under the morning sun than the one in afternoon; I could take a nap / reading a book on the sundeck in the morning, but I had to go into the sea several times to cool my body down in the afternoon. I had to say the sun was the hottest that I ever had on the beach. It liked microwave to burn your skin; without knowing your skin turned into red / tan and hot! Anyway, I really enjoyed it!
As all of you knew, I don't know how to swim; I could only playing the water at the shallow water. The beauty of the beach was even you had walked about 100m away from the beach and yet the water level was still at your chest level. At this level, one could easily see a lot of fish swimming around you, they didn't afraid of human being! It was really fun! I even heard Mat Salleh ladies and children shouting and laughing while seeing the fish swimming around them.
At night, after dinner, I was sitting beside the staff and few guests at the bar watching the video show. After the show, few staff and I sitting and chatting underneath the shelter on the beach. It was really low seasons, that night they had only 6 rooms occupied (they had total of 39 rooms). The night was quiet, but I liked it; a little bit of sadness, because it would be my last night here.
On 9 Oct., the last day I stayed on the island. After breakfast, I followed two staff to go for mango plucking in the jungle. It was a cloudy morning with little rain. The waves were quite rough and the beach was very quiet. After packing my staff and walked down to the restaurant waiting for my boat back to Kuala Besut leaving at 12:00 noon, some of the staff who knew me well were wondering it was my last day here. They were suggesting me to stay on one more night but I couldn't even though I really loved to. One of the staff even bought me lunch at the nearby restaurant (Palm Tree Restaurant) right before I leaving. At last, I got to leave with a heavy heart. I was on the water taxi (motorboat) and kept on looking back; I really missed this place, very much.
For those need to onboard the slow boat (fisherman boat) or bigger speedboat has to take the water taxi from the beach (cost RM2.00 per person per way). The water traffic here was really fun! The speedboat that I took had to pick up passenger at the shore near Coral View Island Resort before going back to mainland. I was speechless all the way back and looking at the island I told myself, I shall return one day!
At about 1:00pm, I was back to Bubu Inn. The staff there gave me a room to rest. The fan/town view room has two double-deckers. I could only take a nap as the room was facing west where get the heat from the sun in the afternoon, and it was next to a bus/taxi station where on and off there were motor vehicles passing by caused the noise. I rather sat at the rest area down stair where I could get sea breeze. At 6:00pm, the driver sent me to the R&R Jerteh for my bus back to Kuala Lumpur leaving at 9:00pm. I was quite bored the whole afternoon waiting for the time passed; I had no mood to walk around the town or to the beach, cause I had the lovesick with the island!
The way back to Kuala Lumpur was a nightmare; it was an old bus and only carried 6 passengers and I was freezing cold cause I did not bring a jacket! As usual, the annoying speed alarm was on the whole night! I would strongly recommend not taking Transnasional as they have too many old buses, chances to get into one is very high. Try other buses like Mutiara or even better, e-Budaya 1st Class (where their buses are all VIP seating).
I reached Putra Bus Station Kuala Lumpur at 5:00am. I sat at the bus station till 6:00am to take the first LRT at PWTC Station back home. While waiting at the bus station, I enjoyed seeing people getting down from the buses and unloading their luggage from the compartment. I saw many bleary-eyed, washed-out faces passing by me and I also saw how people turned down the taxi driver who asking around to offer a ride.
At last I was back at home and continued sleeping on my own lovely bed. Guess what, I heard the sound of waves during my sleep!
Yoke Ming
13 Oct 2002
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