Saturday, November 08, 2003

Pulau Besar Johor [23 ~ 26 October 2003]

I had heard about this island last year, I had even seen the pictures on the Internet. I did try to plan for a trip there, however due to poor response, I couldn't make it. Now, ex-colleague of mine asking me whether to join her group for a 3 days / 2 nights package with fullboard meals and return boat transfer, quite reasonably cheap. Without any further thought, I paid her the money.

We left Kuala Lumpur on 23rd October night by a private car. Her brother drove all the way to Batu Pahat (about 4 hours driving to the south), his wife's hometown for putting up a night there then continued the journey to Mersing Jetty (about 2 and a half hours driving to the east) the next day morning. He was afraid of missing the boat scheduled in the morning if we travel all the way from Kuala Lumpur to the jetty, which would take about 5 hours driving.

The road condition from Batu Pahat to Mersing Jetty was not really good, as the State government was carrying out a construction of highway linked between Batu Pahat and Kluang that would cut down the traveling time by half after completion next year. There was a stretch of about 2.6km journey in the middle of the jungle before reaching Mersing Town was heavily under construction. The road condition was extremely bad. Otherwise we would have reached the jetty much earlier.

Overall, the driving experience was not too bad as along the journey there were signboards showing the way clearly. One could see a lot of palm plantations in this area as compared to the northern part of Peninsular Malaysia more to rubber plantations. The weather was just nice for our journey and we didn't have much problem getting the way. Thanks to our wonderful driver.

The Mersing Town was crowded with heavy traffic and visitors. The car park area next to the jetty was totally full upon our arrival. We had to park our car at the nearby stadium field. We then checked in at the resort office, just opposite the jetty on the other side of the road. We left our luggage in the resort office and went to walk around the town, as we still had some time before boarding the boat. Surprisingly, the people in town were very friendly and helpful. We managed to locate a supermarket nearby after few turning points. It was really amazing, I couldn't find any mineral water available in the whole supermarket; the shelves labeled with drinking water and mineral water was totally empty!

It was due to a public holiday and a long weekend, the visitors were dramatically increased but I guessed most of them were going to Tioman Island, which was the most famous offshore island compared to the rest. We did check with the staff of the resort that they were still having quite a number of empty rooms. The speedboat journey took about 25 minutes; the island was the nearest to Mersing jetty compared to the rest.

 
It was a sunny day. The scenery was irresistible that I couldn't stop myself snapping the pictures! The beach was not as beautiful as compared to Redang Island but the lifestyle was very much different. We could feel that the island was more towards a small village kind of lifestyle than a resort type of living. There were not much entertainment to be found and the facilities of the resort were minimum. There were no water sports, due to the restriction of being part of a marine park. There was no nightlife on the island as well.

There were many hammocks and swings hanging from the roots of the trees at the beach. There were also some tree houses for the children but it seemed strong enough to support adults too. Sleeping on the hammock or playing with the swing or having a nap on the tree house was a wonderful idea for a sunny day near the beach while enjoying the breeze from the sea. It would also be a good idea for a family gathering or activities there. There were some sundecks for those who love sunbathing.

The sands were not that fine and white as compared to Redang Island but were good enough for my expectation. People that enjoy quiet and peaceful nature environment, do nothing but just relaxing their soul and body on the island, appreciate the lazy and slow pace of lifestyle would definitely love this place. The family who set up a small stall next to the jetty selling drinks and foods also had a shelter on the beach with hammocks and chairs with a small radio playing the soft music. One could enjoy chatting with the villagers or listening to the waves and the breeze from the sea while having a glass of iced lemon tea. No one would disturb your sweet and beautiful afternoon nap at the beach. Lovely, isn't it?

We had fresh coconut juice at the stall late afternoon before our dinner (at the resort). The fresh coconuts must be ordered in advance, in order for them to climb up the trees and pluck the amount of coconuts required. They usually don't store excess coconuts, as the coconuts would not be fresh anymore the next day.

There were currently only 3 resorts on the island and the one we were staying is a luxury one, Aseania Pulau Besar Resort. The resort was decorated with lights at night and it was really so attractive and impressive. After the dinner, visitors were usually remained sitting at the cafe enjoying the peaceful moment. Most of them were usually left for their rooms very early, as there were no nightlife activities around. Most of the time, we were playing cards, till I really get tired of seeing cards again. For those who love fishing, the island was a paradise for them. One could choose to fish at the jetty or rent a fishing boat out to the sea for fishing. Island hopping was another favour activities here. We did not join any snorkeling trip cause the weather was merely unpredictable and usually cloudy at this season. We rather spent our time at the beach.

The resort was fenced, in fact others as well, to avoid the cows going into the resort. There were many cows on the island and shitted everywhere. Therefore, one had to be extra careful when walking on the path or ground outside the resort. There was no motorbike on the island as to preserve the peaceful environment. People travel either on foot or using a bicycle.

The resort had the one and only open-air Jacuzzi and a very deep swimming pool that without any stairs. A baby pool for the children was also available. A common lounge was usually crowded with those watching the TV program on football games on air at night.

The island received many Singaporean for a short holiday, also the locals. We did experience a group of locals during the first two days of our stay there making abundance of noise, shouting at each other day and night fearing that no one could ever notice their existence. They finished all the foods on the buffet line whenever the waiter was just serving the dishes. We felt like a kind of release when they finally left the island. We met a group of Singaporean who were really friendly and even invited us to join them for beach volleyball and jungle trekking. We also met another group of Singaporean who were very selfish and unfriendly that not even a smile on their face. We observed all kinds of people who visited the island; guessed this was one of the entertainments that we could find.

Another highlight of this island was plenty of seashells and dead corals. I was really enjoying collecting those tiny and beautiful seashells on the beach the morning before we left the island. I saw people found a huge seashell larger than a basketball the day before. Beware of removing those seashells, dead corals or anything that belongs to the island are prohibited under the roles and regulations of the authority concerned. However, there were still people smuggling those items without being caught.

The wet weather had caused those vehicles that parked inside the stadium field dirtied with mud. We noticed that all those affected vehicles went to the nearby patrol station for washing their cars using the waters freely without paying any cents to the properties owner. At least we pumped and paid the patrol at that station.

On the journey back to Kuala Lumpur, we stopped by another small town, Ayer Hitam. The main road of the town was crowded with people and stalls that selling local snack foods, home decoration items, soft toys and other local products. These were the highlights of this town and usually people who travel between Kuala Lumpur and Singapore would make a comfort or shopping stop here.

Before we left for Kuala Lumpur, we went back to Batu Pahat again. We had the delicious local snack i.e. "otak-otak", the minced fish meat mixed with chilies and other ingredients then cooked and smoked by using charcoal. However, according to the locals, the best "otak-otak" could only be found in the neighbour town, Muar (about 1 hour driving to the north). Friends of mine having party enjoy eating the most famous fruits in Malaysia, so called the king of the fruits, durian. Unfortunately, I don't like it.

We reached Kuala Lumpur about 10pm. I was truly tired of traveling such long journey but I enjoyed the trip, at least self-driving is more flexible than taking the public transportation.

Yoke Ming
8 Nov 2003

[View Pulau Besar Photos]

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